Saturday, September 6, 2008

Visiting Gonder—Part II

Our sightseeing tour included a stop at Debre Birhan Selassie, one of the 44 churches said to exist in Gonder. Most of the original church structures were destroyed in 1888 when the Mahdist of Sudan attacked Gonder, but this particular church escaped untouched. Legend has it that the church was protected by a swarm of bees!

The building itself is unique, but the paintings within are outstanding. The ceiling is absolutely stunning. The 80 cherubic faces looking down at you are considered to be the most famous single example of ecclesiastical art in all of Ethiopia. While I was sitting on a bench quietly gazing at the ceiling and listening to our guide explain the various paintings, I heard this strange, repetitive noise coming from the priest standing guard at the door. I initially didn't think anything of it because I was doing nothing—I wasn't talking, I wasn't taking pictures with flash, and I wasn't wearing a hat. But the squirrel-like chatter continued. When the finger clicking began, I turned and discovered that the priest was less than happy with me. Obviously I was doing something wrong, but I was at a loss. Our guide finally tuned into what was going on and we discovered my major infraction---gum chewing! I "swallowed the gum"—in truth, I plastered it to the roof of my mouth as it was a fresh piece of American, sugar-free gum (i.e. priceless) and I figured it was the act of chewing rather than the physical presence of the gum that was the root of my infraction. The absence of mastication seemed to satisfy the priest and I was finally allowed to resume gazing at the magnificent paintings.



This is the entrance to the church compound.

The ceiling of the church is absolutely stunning!