Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Lalibela—A Place Like No Other


Should any of you consider a trip to Ethiopia, I would just remind you to expect the unexpected. On the morning of our 8:30am flight from Bahar Dar to Lalibela, I began receiving phone calls a touch before 7am. Given that the number was unfamiliar to me, I’m surprised that I actually answered it. I did, but nobody was there. The phone rang 4 more times and I ignored it. On the sixth ring, I picked up and was greeted by a frantic Ethiopian Airlines worker wondering where we were. Excuse me?! Our 8:30am flight had been changed and it was in the process of boarding. Unbelievable. Good thing I now live by the motto of expect the unexpected. I told them we were on the way (a bit of a fabrication) and to HOLD THE PLANE! Can you imagine doing that in the States?! We pulled into the airport and were met in the parking lot by the gate agent who personally escorted our bags into the airport and around security. Within 10 minutes we were checked in and briskly walking across the tarmac. Only in Ethiopia!

Despite our rocky start, our time in Lalibela was perfect. Lalibela, tucked into the Lasta Mountains, is such a fantastic gem. It’s unfortunate that the world knows so little about it. But, then again, maybe that is part of its charm.

I was excited to return to Lalibela for several reasons. First and foremost, the rock-hewn churches are an architectural marvel and I knew my parents would thoroughly enjoy the experience. We spent an entire day stumbling around, in, over, and under all 13 churches. Secondly, I was looking forward to seeing some of the friends that I had met during my first trip to Lalibela nearly a year ago. Much to my delight, I was warmly welcomed and greeted by name. This familiarity led us to a unique invitation…to join our tour guide and his sister for lunch at their home. At this point in the trip, Dad had had enough of injera and we were exhausted so I politely declined. But, it is not common for Ethiopians to take “no” for an answer. When I realized the chicken had already been sacrificed there was no turning back. What never ceases to amaze me is the generous spirit of Ethiopians as a whole. Regardless of how little or how much they have, they are always willing to share. The invite also enabled my parents to experience yet another quirky Ethiopian custom….the “gorsha.” To gorsha someone is to hand-feed another. By the time I realized what Destaw was intending to do, I was too late to intervene. Dad and Mom both survived an enormous gorsha. What good sports!


Tukul Village is my favorite place to stay in Lalibela. The hotel structures are built similar to the traditional two story stone home that is unique to this region of Ethiopia.

Mom stops to purchase a few trinkets from the children who linger outside the church complex.

This shot was taken pre-gorsha. I love how Ethiopians entertain guests whether their home is a one-room mud structure or something more elaborate.


Mom and Dad pose in front of the most recognizable of the Lalibela churches…Gyorgis.