Langata Giraffe Center

After trekking around Ethiopia for 2 weeks, I was so excited for our excursion to Kenya…a chance for me to be the tourist!

Upon our arrival in Nairobi, we were met by staff from &Beyond who immediately whisked us away to our hotel. The wisdom of booking an all-inclusive safari was immediately apparent to us. No haggling with taxi drivers, no negotiating the streets of Nairobi with a map and a prayer….just an effortless, stress free transition, served with a complimentary bottle of water.

Although all of us desperately desired a bit of R&R, we couldn’t be in Nairobi and not SEE Nairobi. With the help of the hotel concierge we contracted a cab for the afternoon and set off. Our destination—the Langata Giraffe Center, a sanctuary for a handful of Rothschild’s giraffes.

You may wonder why we would choose to visit an animal sanctuary when we would be spending the next 6 days in the Masai Mara. Me too. Upon my sister’s return from Kenya she couldn’t say enough about this place and insisted that we would not be disappointed. We weren’t!

Our visit to the sanctuary was fabulous. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you much about how these particular giraffes came to live at the center or anything else related to the center as I spent my entire time with the giraffes. For two hours we fed, watched, petted, and even kissed a giraffe or two. I never dreamed I would have the opportunity to interact so closely with these gentle giants on stilts. Oh…and to prove how close we were, their eyelashes are a mile long!

Mom enjoying a little 1:1 time with a friendly giraffe

Dad made this one work for a food pellet.

There probably aren’t too many people in the world that can say they’ve been kissed by a giraffe. And, in the effort to get the perfect shot, I endured this not once, but three times!

Lalibela—A Place Like No Other

Should any of you consider a trip to Ethiopia, I would just remind you to expect the unexpected. On the morning of our 8:30am flight from Bahar Dar to Lalibela, I began receiving phone calls a touch before 7am. Given that the number was unfamiliar to me, I’m surprised that I actually answered it. I did, but nobody was there. The phone rang 4 more times and I ignored it. On the sixth ring, I picked up and was greeted by a frantic Ethiopian Airlines worker wondering where we were. Excuse me?! Our 8:30am flight had been changed and it was in the process of boarding. Unbelievable. Good thing I now live by the motto of expect the unexpected. I told them we were on the way (a bit of a fabrication) and to HOLD THE PLANE! Can you imagine doing that in the States?! We pulled into the airport and were met in the parking lot by the gate agent who personally escorted our bags into the airport and around security. Within 10 minutes we were checked in and briskly walking across the tarmac. Only in Ethiopia!

Despite our rocky start, our time in Lalibela was perfect. Lalibela, tucked into the Lasta Mountains, is such a fantastic gem. It’s unfortunate that the world knows so little about it. But, then again, maybe that is part of its charm.

I was excited to return to Lalibela for several reasons. First and foremost, the rock-hewn churches are an architectural marvel and I knew my parents would thoroughly enjoy the experience. We spent an entire day stumbling around, in, over, and under all 13 churches. Secondly, I was looking forward to seeing some of the friends that I had met during my first trip to Lalibela nearly a year ago. Much to my delight, I was warmly welcomed and greeted by name. This familiarity led us to a unique invitation…to join our tour guide and his sister for lunch at their home. At this point in the trip, Dad had had enough of injera and we were exhausted so I politely declined. But, it is not common for Ethiopians to take “no” for an answer. When I realized the chicken had already been sacrificed there was no turning back. What never ceases to amaze me is the generous spirit of Ethiopians as a whole. Regardless of how little or how much they have, they are always willing to share. The invite also enabled my parents to experience yet another quirky Ethiopian custom….the “gorsha.” To gorsha someone is to hand-feed another. By the time I realized what Destaw was intending to do, I was too late to intervene. Dad and Mom both survived an enormous gorsha. What good sports!

Tukul Village is my favorite place to stay in Lalibela. The hotel structures are built similar to the traditional two story stone home that is unique to this region of Ethiopia.

Mom stops to purchase a few trinkets from the children who linger outside the church complex.

This shot was taken pre-gorsha. I love how Ethiopians entertain guests whether their home is a one-room mud structure or something more elaborate.

Mom and Dad pose in front of the most recognizable of the Lalibela churches…Gyorgis.

Off the Beaten Path in Bahar Dar

In an effort to continue to experience the unadulterated Ethiopia, I chose to take Mom and Dad to Bahar Dar via public transportation….namely, the big old bus. If there was one aspect of their trip that kept me awake at night it was this. But, I honestly couldn’t come up with any less painful or safer alternative.

On the morning of our grand adventure, Tambarat graciously picked us up at 4:30am and drove us (by bajaj) to the bus station. We boarded, jockeyed and traded for suitable seats (which means one with enough leg room for Dad and for my “prone to motion sickness” Mom, a seat at the front) and then settled in for the journey. In the spectrum of my bus experiences, this one was relatively mundane. The journey was long (a touch over 6 hours), but I think they actually enjoyed the experience and more importantly, although dehydrated, stiff, and dirty we arrived alive and intact.

Our stay in Bahar Dar was short, but we utilized our time well. Unbeknownst to Mom and Dad, I had arranged for a surprise hippo excursion….something well off the beaten path. We met a friend of a friend’s nephew and blindly followed him to a remote location on the Blue Nile River. From there we boarded a rickety boat (no motor; just oars and a few strong men) and drifted downriver. Within 15 minutes we were expertly guided to a pod of 7 hippos. I must say it’s surreal to find yourself co-mingling with these magnificent creatures and difficult to remember their reputation for being one of Africa’s most aggressive residents. We watched their antics for about an hour and then began our return journey. I had wondered how our motor-less boat would be able to pass upstream through the rapids with the 4 of us and a handful of locals on board. We soon found out. One man jumped overboard (keep in mind….this is hippo territory!) and swam/pushed us to the far bank. We were then deposited on the river’s edge and told to walk while our empty boat was swum and dragged upstream. I guess the price of admission only covered a one-way ticket. What a hoot!

The 7th hippo was on guard duty and just outside the scope of this shot

If you look closely you can see the young boy (on the right edge of the herd) swimming his cattle across the river.

Abi Goes to the Doctor

I have always been concerned for Abi’s health. In the time that I have known him, he hasn’t grown an inch. So, I took advantage of his unexpected arrival in DebreMarkos and invited both him and Souwnet to go to the clinic….my treat. I’m sure Abi would have much preferred some other type of treat, but he is so agreeable and willing to do whatever I ask of him. He bravely allowed himself to be examined by my friend, Dr. Iskayis, endured having his blood drawn, provided the required urine sample, but couldn’t come through with the stool sample. It was so hard to keep a straight face when he marched out of the shinta beyt, shrugged his shoulders and loudly declared, “caca yellum” (there isn’t any poop!), and “embi alle” (it’s not willing). He may not be growing, but there is nothing wrong with his sense of humor!

Abi getting his blood drawn

Abi, Souwnet, and my friend—Dr. Iskayis

Dr. Iskayis just had this clinic built, and despite that it is still under construction, he’s open for business. His wife, Hewot (who is also a nurse) gave Mom and I the grand tour. Can you imagine using a public building in the States with an unfinished (i.e. open to the elements; no protective rail) stairwell?

Killing time…Mom and Abi entertain themselves with a game of balloon.

About Town

It was so much fun showing my parents around town…and a perfect chance to capture shots that I tend not to take when I’m by myself. Seeing Ethiopia through their eyes made everything seem new, exciting, and unique again.

Dad and I standing in front of one form of public transportation. This horse should be relieved that we decided to walk!

I love getting fresh juice and this little shop is my favorite. Situated above Gigi’s store, and reached via a rickety, winding, exterior staircase it not only serves up a tasty treat, but also serves as a great vantage point for people watching.

The Gojam rural people have their own unique sense of style. You can easily identify these men as hailing from Gojam by their short shorts and great caps.

Mom quickly learned how to become an instant hit with the kids…snap their picture and then show them. Oh, the power of a digital camera!

Although, the vast majority of Ethiopians in my town are Orthodox, there is a small percentage of Muslims. Mom and Dad are standing in front of our beautiful, and quite large, mosque.

Experiencing “My Life”

My life in Ethiopia is such a trip and I’m so glad that my parents were able to experience the real deal. In our 5½ days in town, we had water once and power twice! We hand washed clothes, hauled water, burned trash in the street, hosted my neighbor kids for game day, washed dishes crouched on a small stool, walked EVERYWHERE, ate by candlelight, and cooked by headlamp. No special accommodations—just pure, unadulterated Ethiopian life.

Bonding with Ava.

Dad burning trash. Everything I do draws a crowd and Dad got to experience that first hand.

Mom provided a helping hand with dishwashing duty.

There is always something happening on my compound. Here, Mom is helping Aselef pound the husk off of the kernels of wheat.

A visit to Ethiopia wouldn’t be complete without trying your hand at making injera. As Mom found out, there is a bit of technique involved.

Aselef couldn’t disguise her astonished reaction when Dad requested a turn at injera making. This is NOT men’s work. Ironically, Dad’s technique was superior to Mom’s!

I spend a significant portion of my “free time” dealing with water these days and this week was no exception. Fortunately, we have a well on the compound. Unfortunately, the water is a good 25-30 feet down.

I just had to show off my prowess at Dutch oven baking.

Hand washing clothes is hard work, but Mom was up for the challenge.

Exhausted after hauling water and washing clothes, Mom and I decided we deserved a break!

My neighborhood kids, who attend my Friday afternoon program, were so excited to meet my parents. And, desperately hoping for a sweet treat from America. They didn’t leave disappointed.

Making the Rounds

I can confidently say that my Ethiopian friends were just as excited to meet my parents, as my parents were excited to meet them. I had anticipated a couple of invites for lunches or dinners, but the outpouring of invitations and repeat invitations was unreal. The menu I had planned for our 5 ½ days in town was whittled down to breakfasts and two dinners!

We visited Souwnet and Abi (he and his grandmother traveled for 5 hours in order to meet my parents), Gigi and Tambarat, Belete and Hannah, Aselef and Getachew, and Hapti. It was great that everyone enjoyed each other’s company, but I have to admit that by the end of the week I was exhausted. Constant translating is HARD WORK! Every once in awhile Gigi or Mom would look at me quizzically and then I would realize that I was translating in the wrong language for the wrong person. Talk about feeling discombobulated! Fortunately, a smile and a hug require no translation!

Gigi and Tambarat love to play cards. I’m so glad that I taught them how to play one of my parents’ favorite games (3 to Kings) as it became something we could easily do together (and required no translating on my part!)

Mom, Me, my good friend Hannah and her girls (Yordanos and Tsion)

Despite my plea of “no gifts,” Hannah and Belete gifted my parents with a traditional Ethiopian painting on hide.

Hapti considers my parents his parents and greeted my mom with a “Hi, Mom” and a gigantic hug.

Gigi did her best to fatten everyone up and she does not take “no thanks” for an answer. Here we are dining on baked spaghetti in the middle of her shop.

Seeing Abi was as much of a treat for me as it was for my parents. I had NO IDEA that he and his grandmother would be making the trip to DebreMarkos.

Souwnet, too, went against my plea for no gifts. Doesn’t Dad look great in his Habesha hat?

Mom and Dad with Souwnet, her mother (Addis), a cousin, and Abi. As you can tell, he is NOT camera shy.

A Visit From My Parents—The Fun Begins

I recently received a card from my sister that said, “Mom is GLOWING and Dad is RAVING” about their trip. Now, I must be honest…I’m not sure either one of them would have used those adjectives during their 2 week Ethiopian adventure, but I can see why they would say that in retrospect. It was an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime adventure for all of us. Travel in Ethiopia is not for the faint of heart…and I’m proud to say that when the going got tough, my parents were able to keep up.

Our adventure began with me arriving late to the airport….already off-program. During my 18 months in country I have never seen so many people trying to get into the airport. Why tonight??? As I skirted one security line and people-hopped in another (for the record I NEVER using my farenji status for special privileges…until tonight) I frantically hoped that they would remember the childhood rule that was pounded into us as kids, “if you get lost….just STAY PUT!” I finally arrived to find them “patiently” parked in the middle of the arrivals lobby behind a mountain of luggage. My mom has been a faithful care package sender, but why send packages when you have a 200-pound luggage allotment??!!

I had hoped that by being a brilliant logistician my parents would not have to suffer through a litany of lessons on patience their first day (perhaps MOMENTS would be more apropos) in country. Not only did I arrive late, but also lost my cab driver…hence an awkward 15 minute wait while I assured my father that the cabbie would eventually return to his car. We arrived at our “luxurious” one star government hotel (which I made even more affordable by asking the “bell-hop” to throw a mattress on the floor for me) and sat down for the first of many cultural lessons. After 24 hours in route it probably wasn’t the most “teachable moment,” but they endured. Watching my Dad practice the “triple cheek kiss,” listening over and over to Mom’s tongue tied (she gets an “A” for effort) rendition of “Amasayganalahoo” (i.e. thank you) and my demonstration of the toilet squat was the perfect beginning to what has proved to be a hilarious (given your perspective) Ethiopian adventure.

Our journey to DebreMarkos was done in fine style. I decided to go easy on their first Ethio-road trip and rented a Land Cruiser (complete with driver). Million (our driver) was worth a million. He stopped for inane photos, patiently smiled and waited so that Mom could listen to the symphony created by donkeys carting eucalyptus leaves and branches as they trotted down Entoto Mountain, stopped at fruit shacks so we could load up, and even squeezed in a coffee break for Dad. I have to admit, that was money well spent!

As we rolled into town, I couldn’t have asked for a better welcome. My neighborhood kids poured out of their respective houses as we proceeded down the hill and waited, breathless, outside of my compound for the first sight of “white haired farenjis.” Desperately wanting to rest, we entered the compound to find Mom and Dad’s very first bunna ceremony ready and waiting. Today, and everyday from here forward, there will be no rest for the weary! WELCOME TO ETHIOPIA, MOM and DAD!

Road Trip to Awassa

As I sit staring at the map of Ethiopia that is plastered to my wall, I’m amazed and disappointed with how little I’ve actually seen of this country. I know the Amhara region well, but have hardly stepped outside of it. In an effort to get to know Ethiopia a bit better, Megan and I boarded yet another bus bound for Awassa…a city situated approximately 275 km south of Addis Ababa and the capital of the Southern Nations, Nationalities’, and Peoples’ region.

Our journey by mini-bus took us through the Great Rift Valley. A valley that earns its prestige as the largest geographical feature on the continent…and for you historical buffs, was the only feature visible to the astronauts who first landed on the moon. As our mini-bus hurtled down the road, for the first time I felt like I was in Africa. The South is SO different from the North. For as far as the eye can see, there are expansive landscapes dotted with huts, liberally sprinkled with acacia trees and bodies of water, that eventually kiss the feet of softly rising mountains. If I were to close my eyes, it would be easy to imagine a herd of zebra or kudu roaming the plains where now there are only run-of-the-mill cattle and scrawny sheep.

After 6 hours we arrived in the lakeside town of Awassa. My first impression…..HOT! My second impression….CLEAN! What a treat to be in a town that doesn’t struggle with a lack of water.

Our agenda for the weekend was to eat good food, relax, and explore (and yes, in that order!) Our hotel, situated on the lake, became a perfect haven for the R&R aspect of our vacation as well as our best wildlife-viewing venue. Monkeys outnumbered humans 2 to 1 and provided hours of cheap entertainment. Their audacious antics were amusing for us, the guests, but an annoyance for the staff. All meals were served with a side of stick….that is, a monkey whacking stick. As I watched the monkeys pilfer bottles of Pepsi and snatch treats from unsuspecting patrons, I could almost hear them snicker and taunt, “keep your eyes on your fries!”

Our wildlife highlight occurred on our walk back from the hotel restaurant to our cabin. It was pitch dark and the light from my headlamp was casting but a sliver of illumination when an Ethiopian man approached us from behind our cabin. Cause for alarm…maybe. But considering Megan and I dwarfed him by a good foot and a fair number of pounds, we decided to hear him out. He was speaking only Amharic and when my pounding heart slowed enough to hear above the din, I heard two words… “gumare” and “ahun”. Translation—hippo…NOW! We followed closely on his heels and found ourselves within 20 yards of a young hippo moseying and munching his way down the shoreline. All reasonable thought vanished. All warnings of hippos being aggressive creatures and the leading cause of human death vanished as we quietly crouched in its presence. What a magnificent animal! What a surreal life I am living! I now KNOW I live in Africa!

Our only full day in town was spent eating and exploring, which we did with gusto. We roamed every aisle of the market while bargaining the socks off the sellers for trinkets that I’ll probably wonder what to do with when I return to the States. And we ate! When good food comes your way but once in a blue moon, hunger is inconsequential and calorie counting is prohibited. We ate a slice of Black Forest cake at the Pinna Hotel, washed it down with a fresh juice, devoured an ice cream cone purchased for us by two kind American military guys, treated ourselves to an amazing Italian dinner at La Dolce Vita, and tested out onion rings at the Pink Burger. The onion ring snack turned out to be quite the adventure. The Pink Burger, striving to look like an American Fast food joint, invested in a dazzling sign that advertised big juicy burgers and golden onion rings. As signs are meant to do, it lured us in. When we placed our order for onions rings and the waitress looked at us quizzically we knew there was a problem. But, Megan is not one to back down from a challenge. She firmly grasped the waitress by the arm, hauled her to the street, and pointed at the magnificent pictorial rendition of the perfect onion ring. Well we got our onion rings…they were neither big, nor beautiful, and I question whether an onion even lurked within the glob of fried dough. So much for truth in advertising!

Travel in Ethiopia is rarely restful or hassle-free, but it is always full of adventure. I just wish that a simple “weekend” excursion didn’t require 28 hours of bus travel! It’s going to be awhile before I venture out again. I need a chance to recover from my vacation!

Lake Awassa

Megan and I

They’re cute AND pesky!

Our charming little cabin.

We completely wore this man out with our highly advanced bargaining powers.

I’ve become a scarf girl. I just can’t stop buying them.

Oh, I just love the things that you see here that you would never see in the States.

Ok, one of those purchases that I know I will regret. Megan talked me into this, because “we can get a better price for two than for just one.” An example of bargaining skills gone awry. Where in the world am I going to wear this thing????