House Hunting--Ethiopian Style

As the daughter of a realtor and a former homeowner, I feel like I have a fairly good understanding of the typical real estate process. You contact a realtor who searches MLS or you drive a desirable neighborhood looking for "FOR SALE" signs. In Ethiopia, it is far from typical and unlike anything I've ever seen. I knew that when I came to visit my site in early December that housing was not yet secured for me. Peace Corps had secured housing for 1 volunteer, but not 2. Smith was given the first house and I was told to wait. My counterparts were very concerned about this as they know how important privacy and personal space is for most Americans. They took it upon themselves to begin looking for housing for me. I'm actually glad that I've been without a home for 3 weeks because the house-hunting process is something I wouldn't have wanted to miss!

So…let me begin by explaining that there are no "FOR SALE" or "FOR RENT" signs. The process begins by walking the town and telling everybody and his brother that you need a house. Then, you wait. A day passes by, and you are again walking when a man leaps off a shoeshine stand and says, "come, I have house". You go immediately, with co-workers, to see said house. Much gesturing and rapid discussion in Amharic ensues and you never get beyond the gate of the compound. Apparently something wasn't right with that one, but no explanation is provided.

Another day passes, and co-worker receives a phone call. We drop everything and walk across town to see the next house. By my novice assessment of Ethiopian housing and the fact that I get "cat-calls" and "hey, honey-ed" when approaching the house, I'm thinking that this isn't a good one. Fortunately, my co-workers are in agreement.

Another day goes by, and while at the internet shop, my co-worker and I are approached by a new man with yet another house to see. This one appears very nice and is in a good location, but it's not exactly for rent…yet. The current renters aren't aware that the landlord has decided to show the house to me. I suspect that that will be a problem. Sure enough, it is. Nice house, nice location, but in the end…not for rent.

Site visit week comes to an end and I'm still homeless. I return to town in mid-December, and am told to "coy" (wait) and to bunk with Smith. Fortunately she is a gracious host and doesn't mind the company. PC staff (Tella and Meskerem) comes to town the last week of December to secure my housing. The process starts over, but this time I'm not included because unfortunately my presence makes obtaining a reasonable rent impossible. Day 1, only one semi-suitable house is found. I'm asked to come see it, but it just doesn't feel right. It's a long way from anything, next to a mechanics shop, and nobody else lives on the compound. Tella agrees with my assessment, but is worried that that may be my only option.

Day 2 arrives and I receive a call that a house has been found. I'm driven across town to what will become my new house. I meet the landlady (who speaks no English), roam the house, discover that the owners will be moving into the servants quarters so that the main house will be available to me, sign the lease (which only consists of the agreed upon monthly rent and a clause allowing me to break said lease with a 30 day notice) and am told that I can move in Tuesday…it is currently Friday. The house is filled with their things and there are renters currently living in the servant's quarters, but I'm told, "not to worry". I've found that it's best just to go with the flow…and therefore I shall not worry! I'm just hoping that "housing hunting Ethiopian style" is a one-time experience for me!! Time will tell.